We use a variety of weaves in our shirt range to deliver both comfort and style. Weaves typically fall into three categories: plain, twill and satin. We at GANT tend to use mainly plain weaves. When it comes to weaves, we refer to the way in which the cotton threads are put together to create a fabric. This is known as the warp and the weft. The warp is the set of lengthwise yarns that are held in tension on a frame or loom, while the weft refers to the yarns that are inserted over-and-under the warp threads during the weaving process. Whichever weave we use, different techniques create a noticeable impact on a shirt’s overall style and finish. The most basic of all weaves, a plain weave is used for its strength and durability. Here, the warp and weft are aligned so that they form a simple crisscross pattern.
The most basic of all weaves, a plain weave is used for its strength and durability. Here, the warp and weft are aligned so that they form a simple crisscross pattern.
Originally developed for sportswear, oxford is soft and doesn’t wrinkle easily thanks to its plain weave or basket weave technique that combines two yarns woven (lengthwise), against a heavier yarn (crosswise).
Pinpoint Oxford Weave
This weave is a mixture between a sturdy oxford and lightweight broadcloth weave. Depending on the treatment, this fabric usually lends a more formal appearance to the wearer.
Made with heavier yarns for a laidback feel that’s ideal for sportswear, this plain weave fabric has a similar construction to broadcloth yet often features white threads running in the weft, giving it an uneven appearance.
Poplin / Broadcloth Weave
Thanks to its lightweight texture, you’ll notice we use this weave in both our dressier and more casual GANT shirt assortment.
Fil-a'-fil (End-on-End) Weave
Closely woven by alternating lighter and darker colored warp and weft threads, the result is a fabric that from a distance, appears plain-colored but up close, features distinct contrast coloring.
Other Weaves and Yarns
Here, we outline some of the other weaving techniques you'll find in our shirts. Sometimes, yarns are mixed, techniques are adapted and patterns are introduced into fabrics to create something completely new.
Here, yarns are woven into unlimited designs with an often intricate and multicolored effect. Look closely and you’ll often see combinations of weaves.
This decorative weave results in small designs or geometric figures all over the woven fabric. Achieved by using a dobby machine, this weave uses various yarns from very fine to coarse and fluffy yarns to produce a variety of fabrics.
Taking its name from the French word for “mixture”, mélange fabrics come in every sort of weave, and are woven using multi-colored dyed yarns.
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